The Battlefield of Waterloo

Victor Hugo described it as the morne plaine (bleak wilderness). Nearly 33,000 men died on these fields. And it was here, on 18 June 1815, that Napoleon’s march toward nearby Brussels was halted and he lost his empire for a second time. Had he decided to launch his first attack earlier than he did—the very civilized hour of 11 am—things might have turned out quite differently. The Duke of Wellington ultimately won the day, but it was a near thing.

The most distinctive thing you see when you visit the battlefield of Waterloo today wasn’t there during the battle. There’s a large mound of earth with a bronze statue of a lion on top.

Appropriately enough, it’s known as the Lion’s Mound (or Butte du Lion). It provides a sweeping view of the battlefield, but it didn’t spring up until 1820, when the King of the Netherlands ordered it be built to commemorate as a monument to the spot where his son, the Prince of Orange, was wounded on the battlefield, taking a musket ball to the shoulder that knocked him off his horse. The Prince lived on; 25 years later he succeeded his father as King of the Netherlands and became known as William II of the Netherlands.

The Lion’s Mound provides a wonderful vista out over the farm fields where the main battle was fought. In the distance, off to the right, there’s the Hougoumont Farm. It changed hands multiple times during the day, and its capture cost many both sides dearly. Just beyond the gently rolling hills, down the road to the left, is Pebble Farm (Ferme du Caillou) where Napoleon spent the night and morning before the battle and laid out his battle plan for his commanders.

Now the battlefield lies mostly still. The pathways, ditches, and rolling countryside that played such important roles in the outcome are still there. It is now mostly farmland once again. Parts of it lie fallow, covered in yellow wildflowers in the spring. That stillness is interrupted once each year on the anniversary of the battle, when re-enactments provide a taste of what it must have been like to be standing on this field on that chaotic and bloody day that changed the course of history.

Photos of the Waterloo Battlefield

More About Waterloo Battlefield

• Site of the historic Battle of Waterloo in present-day Belgium.
• Fought on June 18, 1815, between the French army led by Napoleon Bonaparte and the Allied forces.
• Marked the final defeat of Napoleon and his exile to Saint Helena.
• Allied forces were commanded by the Duke of Wellington and Field Marshal Blücher.
• Significant battle in European history, leading to a long period of peace on the continent.

Waterloo Battlefield is the site of the historic Battle of Waterloo, which took place on June 18, 1815, in present-day Belgium. The battle was fought between the French army, led by Emperor Napoleon Bonaparte, and the Allied forces composed of British, Dutch, and Prussian troops. The confrontation marked the final defeat of Napoleon and his subsequent exile to the remote island of Saint Helena.

The Battle of Waterloo was a decisive engagement that followed the Peninsular War and Napoleon’s escape from exile on Elba. The French army, numbering around 72,000 soldiers, faced the combined forces of approximately 118,000 British, Dutch, and Prussian troops. The Allied forces were commanded by the Duke of Wellington and Field Marshal Gebhard Leberecht von Blücher.

The battle began with a series of attacks and counterattacks between the French and Allied infantry, cavalry, and artillery. Key engagements took place at locations such as La Haye Sainte and along the Brussels road. Despite initial French successes, the arrival of the Prussian army ultimately tipped the balance in favor of the Allies. In a final desperate attempt, Napoleon ordered his elite Imperial Guard to break the Allied line, but they were repelled and forced to retreat.

The defeat at Waterloo effectively ended Napoleon’s reign as Emperor of France and led to his final exile. The battle also marked the beginning of a long period of relative peace in Europe, as the major powers of Austria, Russia, and Great Britain sought to maintain the balance of power established at the Congress of Vienna.

What’s Nearby to Waterloo Battlefield

• Lion’s Mound: A large artificial hill built to commemorate the battle, offering panoramic views of the battlefield.
• Ferme du Caillou: Where Napoleon spent the night before the Battle of Waterloo, transforming it into a makeshift field headquarters. Now a small museum.
• Wellington Museum: A museum dedicated to the life and military career of the Duke of Wellington.
• Hougoumont Farm: A significant location during the battle, now restored as a memorial site.

How to Get to Waterloo Battlefield

Waterloo Battlefield is located near the town of Waterloo in Belgium. The nearest major airport is Brussels Airport (BRU), approximately 25 kilometers (15.5 miles) from the battlefield. From the airport, visitors can take a train or taxi to Waterloo and explore the battlefield and its surrounding attractions.

What to Know Before You Go

The battlefield itself is a field. If you’re an aficionado of the battle you can see the original undulations that played such a role in the battle for hiding troops or providing obstacles.

There’s a complex of attractions at the base of the Butte du Lion (Lion’s Mound) that require entry tickets but are well worth it to better appreciate what you’re looking at. The view from the top of the Lion’s Mound has a great view of the battlefield. The Waterloo Panorama (in the round building) provides old-world tourist charm. There’s a restaurant, gift shop, and some new attractions that were still being built when I was last there.

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